The Man Behind The Brand | Interview with Roberto Coin

Roberto Coin left hotel management to create his own jewellery line and the world of haute joaillerie is more beautiful for it, says Laura McCreddie-Doak.

Vicenza is an old, sophisticated city. It’s known for the elegant buildings designed by the 16th-century architect Andrea Palladio; grand austere buildings such as the Palladian Basilica and the Palazzo Chiericati that are homages to symmetry and a certain kind of Renaissance architectural beauty. Vicenza has also been known for its gold for hundreds of years. In the 14th century it emerged as a prominent city for the arts, with goldsmith Valerio Belli bringing fame to the city’s craft. Today, one fifth of all Italy’s gold and jewellery is made here; often described as the “City of Gold” it serves as a workshop for many prestigious brands. It is also home to Roberto Coin, both the man and the eponymous brand he set up in 1977, though it wouldn’t take his name until 1996. 

He didn’t actually start out in jewellery but in the hotel business. He learned the hotel trade in Switzerland, earning a diploma from the prestigious L’Ecole Hotelier de Lausanne. From there he worked in hotels in Switzerland, Italy, France and the UK before setting up his own, the Duke of Richmond, in 1970 in Guernsey. By 1977 he had returned to Italy, to Vicenza, to start his own jewellery business. For a little over 20 years, he made jewellery for other brands before finally setting up under his own name.

“I have always been fascinated by fashion, and I consider a jewel as the most exclusive and timeless materialisation of dreams.”

says Coin, when asked why he was drawn to jewellery design “At the age of 33 I lived in England, with a successful career in hotels, but I decided to launch myself into an adventure in creativity, coming back to Italy and studying all the secrets of the jewellery world. It has not been easy, but it has been a great adventure and today, also a great choice.” From the very first collection, Appassionata, he devised a signature flourish that appears in every piece of jewellery. A small synthetic ruby hidden somewhere that touches the skin as a symbol of love, happiness and good fortune. He was inspired by this stone’s significance to the Ancient Egyptians. These styles sit in the collection today, but his bejewelled universe has expanded. There is the minimal, contemporary stylings of “Love in Verona” inspired by the city in which is set one of the world’s most enduring love stories, Romeo and Juliet. The wild region of Navarra in northern Spain is the backdrop for the collection of the same name. 

Coin based these bold structural pieces on its coat of arms, which was made of 16 chains in a sunray pattern under a glorious crown. Jasmine, meanwhile, embodies all the fragrant beauty of this delicate flower; its petals used to adorn rings and bracelets or dangle prettily from earrings and gold chains. Incredibly, he still designs five collections a year. “Creativity is endless, either it is in your genes and comes naturally from your curiosity or it is built on the love for fashion and arts,” he says. “It needs knowledge and culture, otherwise it is difficult to evolve and become a credible brand. I love the world in general, from nature to people, from animals to legends, they are all sources of continuous inspiration. My collections have the ruby as a unique anchor. Anyway, If I must express my main place of inspiration today, I would say Venice and its art and architectural characteristics.”

La Serenissima, the city where Coin was born, remains a constant source of inspiration for him. He held his 80th birthday party there to celebrate. Guests were outfitted in authentic 17th and 18th century ballgowns designed by famous local couturier Antonia Sautter. As well as being an accomplished designer of period-correct gowns, she is also the creator and creative director of the renowned Gala Il Ballo del Doge. Taking place during the Venice Carnival it is a masquerade, a refined society gala, an opulent banquet and a stunning show. It is the most exclusive event of the Carnival in which all the guests participate in ostentatious 18th century garb while wearing Venetian masks. “Venice is the city where I spend all my spare time, walking along the calle and taking inspiration from palaces façades to create my collections,” says Coin.

Vicenza is also the place where he has set a workshop that combines traditional techniques like handsculpting, polishing, and setting each piece. However, this sits alongside modern elements such as 3D-printed wax models for casting in gold and advanced machines for diamond selection and verification. “In our factory there is a continued commitment to respecting traditions while mastering technological advancement,” he says. “Artisans are the keepers of ancient secrets that they hold in their quick-moving fingers, considered as true artists. On the other hand, technology continues to advance quickly towards horizons that were unimaginable even just a few years earlier. Their constant dialogue results in our extraordinary collections.”

Already beloved of the famous (Cynthia Erivo is a regular wearer as is Nicole Kidman), Roberto Coin as a brand is about to get a whole lot more well known among a certain generation of women, as it has signed Dakota Johnson to be its global ambassador. Her press tour for Marvel flop Madame Web made her a viral sensation for her dry, candid and often humorous response to questions about how poorly received the film had been, with fans loving her refreshingly honest interviews. “Dakota emphasised the artistic aspects of the brand, showcasing the unique and constant distinctive character of the collections in the campaign, transporting us to the iconic scenery that inspired the jewellery,” Coin noted when asked why he thought Johnson embodied the brand. “Moreover, the brand and Dakota are involved in the same mission: that of building the future on a conscious, ethically responsible and emotionally charged present.” In the meantime, the jewellery master will continue to design collections that women love. “Those women who feels aligned with an idea of beauty and love for life, wear Roberto Coin creations,” he explains when asked if he has a specific woman in mind when he begins a collection. “I create freely, but I am a strong observer of the world. Beauty captures my attention, which I transform into ideas and designs able to enhance emotions.” Jewellery is a story, both of the woman who wears it and the man who created it. And no one understands that better than Roberto Coin.

Written by Laura McCreddie-Doak